Around 11 am Carnival Tuesday morning, I realised that Carnival 2026 was over. We had seen all the bands we wanted to see. K2K, Lost Tribe and All Stars showed that all was not dead, there was some hope, there always is. Shakespeare said of Cleopatra: “Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale/Her infinite variety.” It’s the same with us and our culture, “infinite variety.” As soon as you think the Carnival is over, along comes someone trying a new thing, shouting out “Come leh we go!”
But it’s difficult to remember. All around us are the signs of a festival running itself into the ground, spectator apathy, stale music and cheap goodie tricks. Carnival has become a toss-up between some traditional characters, sailors, jab jabs etc, a few pan sides trying to be heard and a vast group of excited young people dancing half-naked in the street. The only positives are the enthusiasm of youth (fuelled by alcohol and drugs) who see magic in anything. And pan.
Could pan be the saviour of Carnival?
Yet, I saw one of the saddest things J’Ouvert morning. Invaders coming down Cipriani Boulevard, on top of a truck, accompanied by no more than 20 supporters, wearily, slowly and individually shuffling home. Band high above the heads of the poor 20 supporters, another 15 to 20 players, playing nicely but sadly.
Way up to the late nineties, after meeting Invaders and our friends in the back of Invaders, Outvaders, moving with the pan through Green Corner into Park Street, turn into Frederick and down to Independence Square, take a small wine, have a drink nuh, we sweet, turn to go home and somewhere along the way, start pushing the pan as the regular pushers begin to drop out, all the way up Abercromby into Tragarete and back to the pan yard, accompanied by several hundred people chipping and singing away.
A steelband knows when it has been abandoned. Pans should be shouting out the return home. Instead, they are crying tears. But pan is resilient. I have to believe it will make a return. Someday, J’Ouvert will revert to its original idea of ole mas and steelband and not the Americanised fantasy of “Get in yuh Section” it now is.
For now, pan is stage. Pan is for concerts. The road no longer belongs to pan.
This is probably what people want. Fetes are now stage concerts. You get to dress up, stand in front of a stage decked off with some individual bawling into a microphone, backed by wining young women and huge flags and take selfies of yourself to send to others who are also taking selfies and sending them out, back to you and others in Brooklyn, Toronto, London etc, “Look! Lookame! I having a wonderful time!”
This has been transferred to the street. Carnival on the street has been transformed into a moving concert, somebody on top of a truck shouting out for people to jomp, jomp, jomp … and people jump, up and down, just like a group of excited children dancing, the “kiddie dance!”
Most people seem to know the words of the songs by heart, which means they like it: jomp, jomp, jomp, jomp … hey, hey, hey and then some meaningless rubbish and here it comes around again, yuh wonder, yuh wonder, round and round it goes and where it going to stop, nobody knows.
Turn on TTT Monday 2.15 pm, four moko jumbie on stage, not a spectator in sight. Turn it off. 2.30 back on, this time there is a band of some 11 individuals, women in some sort of dark brown shorts and bras, bottoms exposed, the men in shorts. The band actually has a name. Off. Back on at 2.45, now there is an individual with a sort of suit and a headpiece, they say he is portraying some individual. Fifty-metre stage, one person on it? Nah man. Turn it off. This is a joke. Downtown, it’s the same. Empty stage, empty pavement.
Yes, the mas dead on Monday and dying on Tuesday. Is there an opening for the true sound of Carnival, the steelband, to take advantage and make a return to the street? Not everybody will agree or want that. Can All Stars repeat on Monday, what they did on Tuesday? In All Stars you play mas. With other bands you play yourself or the costume. Can other pan sides do this?
In the end, natural selection will take place and Carnival will evolve as people want and Carnival as we know it will be changed.
