Kendell Mulzac is talented. He does not sing, nor does he dance or play an instrument. He is instead graced with the gift of blending flavours and textures. He can take that which appears ordinary and turn it into a culinary magnum opus. In Trini parlance, he possesses that proverbial sweet hand. He has already created a culinary gem. Mulzac, Hyatt Regency Trinidad's Chef de Partie, won gold and the title Pastry Chef of the Year 2012 in the Trinidad Hotels Restaurants and Tourism Association's (THRTA) National Culinary Competition, with his dish, A Taste of Tropical Flavours. He is set to represent T&T along with seven others at the Regional Culinary Competition to be held at Miami's Hyatt Regency in June. Initially, the mere mention of the ingredients appears discordant. But the coconut crème caramel, atop pineapple cassava pone, served with guava beet sauce, passion fruit mojito and semi-macerated fruit "stains the palate." The dish plays with temperature as well, blending warm and cold. If there was ever a taste that epitomised the Caribbean's sweetness and elegant ease, this would be it.
But if it had been left up to Mulzac's father, he may not have been the award-winning pastry chef he is today. At the tender age of 11 he realised he had a gift for cooking, but more importantly, he enjoyed doing it. Mulzac, the last of four children, was born on Mother's Day, had the opportunity to further a skill immediately after secondary school with the Jumpstart Programme. "At first I had put banking on my application. Raymundo Villafana, a family friend, saw my choice and asked me why I put that. I told him to do something that would make more money. He then told me to follow my heart and money will come." And so his career as a pastry chef began. He trained for six weeks at the Hilton Hotel. While there the executive chef noticed Mulzac's talent and told him, "You will be a great chef someday."
He worked while studying for an associate degree in culinary arts at the Trinidad and Tobago Hospitality and Tourism Institute (TTHTI). In 2008 he joined the team at the Hyatt Regency, and in 2009 he entered the National Culinary Competition for the first time. In 2010 and 2011 he did not enter because of time constraints, but this year he could not escape his fate. Hyatt Regency Trinidad's executive chef, Fernando Franco, informed him that he (Mulzac) would enter the competition. This time he did not disappoint. He mulled constantly over texture and flavour, and after subjecting his "tasters" (his 13-member pastry team) to his different dishes, he discovered the right dish. He then shared it with pastry chef Milan Smith and other members of the Hyatt team and they all came to one conclusion-this dish was beyond anything expected. The rest, as they say, is history.
