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Thursday, July 24, 2025

Gaultier ends ready-to-wear lines

by

20150403

He may be one of the world's most fa­mous de­sign­ers but Jean Paul Gaulti­er seems to be falling out of love with the fash­ion in­dus­try.

The French cou­turi­er–who found fame putting Madon­na in a con­i­cal bra and helped shape glob­al trends for four decades–shocked the fash­ion world by end­ing his ready-to-wear and menswear lines ear­li­er this year.

And in a can­did in­ter­view with The As­so­ci­at­ed Press, the 62-year-old–whose sig­na­ture per­ox­ide quiff has now rather sym­bol­i­cal­ly grayed–ex­plained why.

"Too many clothes kills clothes...Fash­ion has changed. A pro­lif­er­a­tion of cloth­ing. Eight col­lec­tions per sea­son–that's 16 a year," he said.

"The sys­tem doesn't work...There aren't enough peo­ple to buy them. We're mak­ing clothes that aren't des­tined to be worn," he added as he stood be­side a man­nequin sport­ing one of his gi­ant, pointy bustiers.

Gaulti­er gave his grave prog­no­sis on the health of fash­ion from the newest leg of his ac­claimed ret­ro­spec­tive, which has trav­elled from Mon­tre­al to Rot­ter­dam to Lon­don and is now in Paris. The scope of the ex­hib­it, from top hats made of hu­man hair to bondage out­fits and corsets made of rib­bon, show­cas­es Gaulti­er's bril­liance and the­atri­cal flair.

And his launch par­ty–at­tend­ed by the likes of Kylie Minogue, Cather­ine Deneuve and Nana Mousk­ouri–was tes­ta­ment to his en­dur­ing pop­u­lar­i­ty.

But the ret­ro­spec­tive al­so feels like it her­alds the end of an era. The one-time en­fant ter­ri­ble was once seen as the heir to Yves Saint Lau­rent, but in re­cent sea­sons his wom­enswear shows failed to im­press top crit­ics who judged that his de­signs now lacked co­her­ence. (AP)


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