JavaScript is disabled in your web browser or browser is too old to support JavaScript. Today almost all web pages contain JavaScript, a scripting programming language that runs on visitor's web browser. It makes web pages functional for specific purposes and if disabled for some reason, the content or the functionality of the web page can be limited or unavailable.

Friday, August 8, 2025

Jassie Singh rediscovering our ancestors' cuisine

by

Charles Kong-Soo
1729 days ago
20201114
The Culinary Heritage of Trinbago book cover.

The Culinary Heritage of Trinbago book cover.

To­day, No­vem­ber 14, is Di­vali, one of the biggest Hin­du fes­ti­vals cel­e­brat­ed in many coun­tries across the world.

In T&T, in the week lead­ing up to Di­vali, the largest cel­e­bra­tion out­side of In­dia is said to be held at the Di­vali Na­gar.

Jassie Singh

Jassie Singh

Jassie Singh

Many Hin­dus prayed, fast­ed, cleaned and paint­ed their homes lead­ing up to the fes­ti­val of Di­vali. Cit­i­zens joined their Hin­du broth­ers and sis­ters in light­ing deyas at their homes and com­muni­ties dur­ing the fes­ti­val of lights.

Di­vali's uni­ver­sal mes­sage of light over dark­ness was even more sig­nif­i­cant this year, with COVID-19 be­ing the vi­ral Rawan to be van­quished by mankind.

Hin­du fam­i­lies dressed in their el­e­gant In­di­an fin­ery dis­trib­uted de­li­cious sweets such as kur­ma, barfi, mithai, gu­lab ja­mun and parsad on the joy­ous oc­ca­sion to sig­ni­fy the im­por­tance of shar­ing and serv­ing.

Yogurt made from scratch

Yogurt made from scratch

In T&T, roti shops went in­to over­drive the night be­fore Di­vali cook­ing tra­di­tion­al In­di­an fare such as roti, buss up shut, pump­kin, chan­na, bha­gi, chataigne, pota­to, plus cur­ry meats, while home cooks al­so put in their best ef­forts.

If you are an am­a­teur chef or would like to in­dulge your pas­sion mak­ing these savoury dish­es, you can try your hand even though Di­vali 2020 has gone. And if you are al­so in­ter­est­ed, you can in­dulge in some Christ­mas fare as the yule­tide sea­son is just around the cor­ner. In both in­stances you can try Chef Jassie Singh's The Culi­nary Her­itage of Trin­ba­go: Our Sea­son­al and Tra­di­tion­al Foods cook­book.

Singh's book has over 380 recipes and more than 20 mouth-wa­ter­ing Christ­mas recipes from ham, turkey, pastelles, paime, stewed pi­geon peas, black cake, sponge cake, jamoon wine, gin­ger beer, ponche de creme, and a sec­tion on cook­ing goat for Christ­mas is for you. Have you heard of a 'fat roti,' lai bhe­li, sattwa, chal­ta, long wa­ter aloo, Cre­ole fried chick­en, bread­ruit tarkari, and cit­rus can­dy? These are just some of the recipes in her new book from T&T's culi­nary cross-cul­tur­al past that many peo­ple do not know about to­day.

Some of the tra­di­tion­al meals are cat­e­gorised by sea­sons such as Di­vali, Christ­mas, Car­ni­val, Man­go/Wed­ding, Gua­va and Lenten sea­sons, with an icon in­di­cat­ing veg­e­tar­i­an fare and links to ac­com­pa­ny­ing food that goes to­geth­er.

The book takes us on an ed­u­ca­tion­al and cul­tur­al jour­ney of the in­flu­ences of the First Peo­ples, In­di­ans, Africans, Eu­ro­peans, Syr­i­an/Lebanese and Chi­nese to make what has be­come unique­ly T&T cui­sine.

Table laden with T&T Christmas food

Table laden with T&T Christmas food

Speak­ing to Guardian Me­dia, Singh said "A ma­jor con­cern for me is that the book cap­tures the food we all grew up with and I was hap­py to be able to col­late all these recipes to en­sure that we don't lose them.

"We cook for our chil­dren and grand­chil­dren, we may be busy with our jobs and may not be able to cook for them, and they would like to have the food that their grand­par­ents cooked for them.

"They have lost that culi­nary link with their fore­par­ents and want to reestab­lish that link with the food that nour­ished their an­ces­tors. The sec­ond and third gen­er­a­tion Trinida­di­ans in the new di­as­po­ra long for the food we grew up with."

The au­thor of ‘Cook­ing with Ac­k­ee’ in col­lab­o­ra­tion with her nephew Dean Bur­rowes; and co-au­thor of ‘Kunuwa­ton–the Cul­ture and Cui­sine of the First Peo­ples of Ari­ma, Kairi’ with Dr Sat­nar­ine Balka­rans­ingh said the book would not have come about in its present form if not for Dr Balka­rans­ingh's sug­ges­tion to do a book on fes­ti­val foods, which was his orig­i­nal con­cept. But all of the recipes are hers, with con­tri­bu­tions from friends, fam­i­ly, col­leagues and peo­ple she in­ter­act­ed with.

Singh thought it pru­dent to re­search on­line for what was avail­able in what was the largest source of recipes any­where. She said what she dis­cov­ered was quite a rev­e­la­tion as there was so much mis­in­for­ma­tion about T&T's tra­di­tion­al foods dis­sem­i­nat­ed on­line. Her mis­sion was to cor­rect as much of it as she pos­si­bly could, with the task made more ur­gent when some mem­bers of the younger T&T gen­er­a­tion said their com­fort food was piz­za and lasagna. In con­trast, Singh said her favourite com­fort food was the lo­cal cur­ry duck and dhalpuri.

She said what al­so mo­ti­vat­ed her to get the book done was the coun­try's stag­ger­ing food im­port bill which stood at $5.67 bil­lion in 2019.

Singh said she was hop­ing the recipes con­tained in the cook­book can bring peo­ple back to home and hearth and to the pop­u­lar­i­ty or a resur­gence in the tra­di­tion­al T&T foods of our an­ces­tors.

The Culi­nary Her­itage of Trin­ba­go: Our Sea­son­al and Tra­di­tion­al Foods cook­book will be avail­able in lo­cal book­stores month-end and on Ama­zon.

Jassie Singh teach­es cook­ing class­es at her Ari­ma home, was a guest tu­tor for the bread and cake mak­ing class­es at YTEPP as well as the cater­ing class, de­vel­oped ten recipes for Fer­mi­pan In­ter­na­tion­al, the yeast Com­pa­ny from Hol­land, and in­struct­ed veg­e­tar­i­an menu plan­ning and cook­ing at the Swa­ha Hin­du Col­lege in San­gre Grande.

Author


Related articles

Sponsored

Weather

PORT OF SPAIN WEATHER

Sponsored