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Wednesday, August 13, 2025

Homecoming in the Himalayas: Namita Gokhale’s poignant return with 'Never Never Land'

by

Ira Mathur
423 days ago
20240616

Na­mi­ta Gokhale, among In­dia’s most orig­i­nal and dar­ing writ­ers, ed­i­tors, and pub­lish­ers, re­turns with Nev­er Nev­er Land, pub­lished by Speak­ing Tiger in March 2024, a poignant tale set in the Ku­maon Hi­malayas.

The sto­ry fol­lows Iti Arya, a lone­ly, mid­dle-aged woman at a per­son­al and pro­fes­sion­al dead end, who re­treats from the bustling city of Gur­gaon to The Dacha, a re­mote cot­tage where she spent the hap­pi­est years of her child­hood. Over the course of a sin­gle mon­soon, in the com­pa­ny of two grand­moth­ers—nine­ty-some­thing Ba­di Am­ma and 102-year-old Rosin­ka Paul Singh—and a mys­te­ri­ous girl who might be her sis­ter, Iti comes to terms with her life’s qui­et des­o­la­tion.

In this serene moun­tain set­ting, Iti wit­ness­es the van­i­ty, vul­ner­a­bil­i­ty, and ten­der­ness of youth, as well as the in­dig­ni­ties, courage, and con­so­la­tions of old age. Through her jour­ney, she finds peace and sub­mits to the eter­nal spir­it of the moun­tains. Gokhale re­flects on the cre­ation of Nev­er Nev­er Land, shar­ing that it was writ­ten dur­ing a pe­ri­od when she thought she was done with nov­el writ­ing.

She be­gan with­out know­ing where the sto­ry would lead, but with a clear struc­ture in mind, the char­ac­ters took shape, emerg­ing from the shad­ows of their back­sto­ries. “It’s not a big book, not an am­bi­tious book, just a sto­ry about peo­ple I have grown to love.”

Set against the ma­jes­tic back­drop of the Hi­malayas, the nov­el in­ter­weaves threads of many sto­ries Gokhale has told and those yet to be told. With 23 books to her name and two new man­u­scripts in progress, Gokhale’s in­volve­ment with the Jaipur Lit­er­a­ture Fes­ti­val and her friend­ships with writ­ers world­wide con­tin­ue to be “pre­cious gifts” in her life.

Her de­but nov­el, Paro: Dreams of Pas­sion, was re­leased in 1984, and she has since writ­ten fic­tion and non­fic­tion and edit­ed non­fic­tion col­lec­tions. She con­cep­tu­alised and host­ed the Do­or­dar­shan show, Ki­taab­na­ma: Books and The fol­low­ing is an ex­cerpt from Nev­er Nev­er Land, with full per­mis­sion grant­ed ex­clu­sive­ly to the Sun­day Guardian by the pub­lish­er, Speak­ing Tiger.

“The In­ter­net has ar­rived at The Dacha. I don’t ac­cess it much—I’ve got out of the habit, and the con­nec­tiv­i­ty is con­sis­tent­ly patchy in any case. It in­trudes. But it al­so con­firms the world that is wait­ing at our doorsteps. I’ve be­gun work­ing on a new nov­el, aban­don­ing all the ear­li­er un­fin­ished ones. A sto­ry is emerg­ing, but sto­ries tend to get con­fused with oth­er sto­ries. A straight nar­ra­tive with a clear arc of ac­tions and con­se­quences is clear­ly not pos­si­ble. Es­pe­cial­ly not here, in Nev­er Nev­er Land.

Au­tumn has ar­rived and dug its heels in. The trees have changed colour. Red and yel­low every­where. The night sky is clear. The days are awash with bril­liant sun­shine. The evenings are cold but ten­der.

It has snowed in the high Hi­malaya. The fa­mil­iar peaks greet me every morn­ing, be­fore the cloud line be­gins to veil them.

The mag­pie watch­es over me as I sit in the gar­den and read from the book of folk tales that Pe­ter Paul Singh trans­lat­ed in­to Eng­lish from the Ger­man. Or was it from the Russ­ian ver­sion? Sto­ries cir­cle like the mur­mu­ra­tion of birds in the sky, so many of them, and yet, of­ten, the same sto­ries.

There was a sto­ry Ba­di Am­ma used to tell me, of the girl who lived with her an­cient grand­moth­er in Nev­er Nev­er Land. I searched for the sto­ry in Pe­ter’s book, but couldn’t find it.

There was an­oth­er sto­ry that Ba­di Am­ma would tell me, about a snow-white crow that would dance across the sky in the high moun­tains when win­ter an­nounced it­self. It was the har­bin­ger of a harsh and bit­ter win­ter, that bird, of snow­storms and avalanch­es, and peo­ple would trem­ble with fear when they saw it. That sto­ry was in the book. I read and re-read it.

Crows and ravens and mag­pies, they are all corvids, clever and as­tute. They can recog­nise faces and hold a grudge. They can make tools and hide their food. They mate for life. They have fu­ner­als for their dead.

I dreamt of a white raven, but then it be­came a mag­pie, my mag­pie, and flew away. Owls hoot­ed all night. Dogs howled and bayed at the moon. Moths flut­tered be­hind thin cur­tains.

The weath­er has changed again. Rain and hail and sleet for days on end. A he­li­copter has crashed near Badri­nath. Bus­es have dis­ap­peared in­to ravines and khuds and rivers are in spate. The elec­tric­i­ty comes and goes. The In­ter­net keeps us alert­ed and up­dat­ed to the hav­oc around. They call it cli­mate change and glob­al warm­ing and ster­ile words like that, but it is more than that. It is the wrath of the gods.

That is what Ba­di Am­ma told me, and I be­lieve her. ‘Ut­taran­chal, our Ut­tarak­hand, is the Dev Bhoo­mi, the land of the Gods. That is what they call it in the Man­as Khand, in the an­cient epics. Now, the Moun­tain Gods are im­pa­tient be­ings—they like soli­tude, they don’t en­joy be­ing jos­tled around. So they have de­cid­ed to push away the tourists and the greedy builders who are pol­lut­ing our Dev Bhoo­mi. They will push them over the cliffs, they will bury them un­der land­slides, they will drown them in the over­flow­ing rivers.’

‘If they still don’t un­der­stand,’ she added, ‘they will set the forests on fire. They will re­claim our sa­cred land and make it green and young again.’

I had nev­er seen her so pas­sion­ate about any­thing be­fore.

She was not the on­ly one. Pooran and his wife Par­vati re­turned from the tem­ple in the next vil­lage whis­per­ing to each oth­er. They looked trou­bled.

‘What’s the mat­ter? You look wor­ried,’ I said to Par­vati.

Pooran replied on her be­half. ‘A holy man had come from high in the Hi­malaya to vis­it the tem­ple in the next vil­lage,’ he said. ‘He told us the Gods are go­ing to de­part from these moun­tains un­til hu­mans mend their ways. They will send ghouls and spir­its to dri­ve the hu­mans away. A no­ble bear will be crowned King and rule over hill and dale. On­ly seek­ers and right­eous peo­ple shall be al­lowed here—the rest will be tipped back like garbage to the plains be­low. It has hap­pened in Joshi­math al­ready, the sad­hu said, and it will hap­pen every­where.’

It sound­ed dire, but al­so re­as­sur­ing, de­pend­ing on the per­spec­tive from which you ex­am­ined prophe­cies. Now Par­vati took over from Pooran. ‘We had heard of Shiv­ji’s Tan­da­va—now we shall wit­ness De­vi Bhairavi’s dance of de­struc­tion! The God­dess­es will not go away—they will guard the se­crets un­til the Gods re­turn.’ It sound­ed con­fus­ing but some­how com­fort­ing. Par­vati looked at her watch. ‘I have to mar­i­nate the lamb chops,’ she said, ‘and make khich­di for Ba­di Am­ma! The gods will not de­scend to help me in the kitchen!’”

–End of ex­cerpt

Na­mi­ta Gokhale won the 2021 Sahitya Akade­mi Award [1] for her nov­el ‘Things to Leave Be­hind’.

Ira Math­ur is a Guardian Me­dia jour­nal­ist and the win­ner of the 2023 Bo­cas Prize for Non-Fic­tion for her mem­oir, Love The Dark Days. Web­site: www.iras­room.org Au­thor in­quiries can be sent to iras­room@gmail.com 


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